Dylan had been in the water for about 45 minutes when he finally saw a decent set of waves heading down the coast. He paddled out a little farther and let the first two waves roll through. The overeager surfers would clear out early, giving him room for a good ride on the later waves. […]
I chose the third wave of the set, gliding over water so aqua cool that every cut, bruise, and scar along the way faded into something I never was but am forever becoming. That night, gazing at the sea, I dribbled blood red wine down my shirt. It glowed like a birthmark in the fading
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